Aalst

Aalst is a city of roughly 90,000 people in East Flanders, built along the Dender River about 30 kilometers northwest of Brussels. Its Grote Markt is anchored by a 15th-century belfry, part of the old Town Hall, which is inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage list alongside other belfries of Belgium and France.

Aalst carries a reputation as Belgium's biggest carnival city, and locals proudly nickname themselves "de Ajuinen," the onions, after the region's historic onion-growing trade. It's a working Flemish town rather than a polished tourist stop, which gives it a livelier, more local feel than nearby Ghent or Bruges, and its position directly on the Brussels-Ghent rail line makes it an easy add-on to a Flanders itinerary.

Aalst shares Flanders' temperate maritime climate, with mild, changeable weather and rain spread fairly evenly across the year. Summers (June to August) bring the warmest and driest stretch, with average highs typically in the low-to-mid 20s Celsius, making it the most comfortable season for walking the Grote Markt and riverside paths.

Winters (December to February) are cool and grey rather than bitterly cold, with the city's biggest annual draw, its carnival, falling in February or early March depending on the date of Easter; layered, waterproof clothing is essential for that period. Spring and autumn are mild and reasonably good for sightseeing, with fewer crowds than the summer months.

By Train

Aalst sits directly on railway line 50 between Brussels and Ghent, so it's served by frequent trains in both directions. Brussels is roughly 25 to 35 minutes away and Ghent around 20 to 25 minutes, with departures running regularly throughout the day via SNCB, Belgium's national rail operator. The station is a short walk from the Grote Markt.

By Air

Brussels Airport (Zaventem) is the closest major airport, around 30 to 40 km away, reachable by train via Brussels or by car in under an hour. Brussels South Charleroi Airport is farther but also workable with a transfer through Brussels.

By Road

Aalst sits near the E40 motorway corridor linking Brussels to Ghent and the coast, making it a convenient stop for road travelers moving between those cities. Driving from central Brussels typically takes under 40 minutes outside peak traffic.

On Foot

The historic center around the Grote Markt is compact and walkable, with the belfry, St. Martin's Church, and the main shopping streets all within a 10-minute walk of one another. The train station is close enough to the center that most visitors won't need local transit for a single day's sightseeing.

Local Buses

De Lijn, the Flemish regional bus operator, connects the center to Aalst's outer districts and surrounding villages such as Erembodegem and Moorsel, useful for visitors staying outside the immediate core.

Cycling

Aalst is a hub for several signed regional cycling routes, including paths following the Dender River, and the relatively flat terrain makes cycling a practical way to combine the city center with nearby countryside villages.

The Belfry and Grote Markt

The Belfry of Aalst, part of the old Town Hall on the Grote Markt, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating to the 15th century; visits are generally by guided tour only, so it's worth checking with the tourist office ahead of time. The Grote Markt itself, lined with the Renaissance town hall facade and cafés, doubles as the starting point for the annual carnival parade and is worth a slow walk at different times of day.

Historic Landmarks

St. Martin's Church (Sint-Martinuskerk) holds an unfinished but still striking Gothic interior, including a notable Rubens altarpiece. Nearby, the Oud Schepenhuis, believed to be the oldest surviving courthouse in the Low Countries with sections dating to the 13th century, and a bronze statue of local Renaissance printer Dirk Martens in front of the belfry round out the historic core.

Museums and Culture

't Gasthuys City Museum, housed in a former city hospital behind St. Martin's Church, covers Aalst's history including its carnival traditions and civic life. The Netwerk Contemporary Art Centre, set in a converted tobacco warehouse, hosts changing exhibitions, talks, and concerts for visitors interested in contemporary art beyond the historic sights.

Parks and the Dender Riverside

Stadspark, about 800 meters from the center, offers a quiet green space with mature trees and, in summer, occasional outdoor events. The promenades along the Dender River give an easy, flat walking or cycling route through and beyond the city.

Grote Markt and Historic Center

The area around the Grote Markt holds the highest concentration of restaurants, shops, and landmarks, and is the natural base for exploring the city on foot.

Schotte Quarter

Just southwest of the center, the Schotte district around Kattestraat has a more local, working-class character with converted industrial buildings, including restaurants set in a restored former tannery, and fewer visitors than the main square.

Erembodegem and Outer Villages

The surrounding villages that make up greater Aalst, including Erembodegem and Moorsel, are quieter residential areas better suited to travelers who prioritize a calmer stay with easy bus or bike access back into the center.

Onion and Hop Culture

Aalst's identity as "onion town" comes from a long regional history of onion cultivation, and local chefs still lean on onions and hops, another regional crop, in traditional dishes. Look for these ingredients worked into classic Flemish stews and sauces on menus around the Grote Markt.

Flemish Classics

Stoofvlees, a slow-cooked beef stew traditionally simmered in local beer, is a staple on menus across the city, usually served with fries. Belgian staples like carbonade, croquettes, and mussels in season also appear widely, alongside the all-you-can-eat rib restaurants the city has become known for among regional diners.

Where to Eat and Drink

The streets around the Grote Markt hold the greatest concentration of cafés, brasseries, and beer bars, ranging from casual to Michelin-recognized fine dining just outside the center. Aalst's markets, including the weekly Saturday market, are a good way to see and buy local produce alongside the fixed restaurant scene.

Staying near the Grote Markt puts visitors within walking distance of the belfry, St. Martin's Church, and the bulk of the city's restaurants, and is the most convenient choice for a short visit. Options here run from small boutique hotels in historic buildings to simpler guesthouses on the surrounding streets.

Because Aalst sits directly on the Brussels-Ghent rail line, it also works as a lower-cost, quieter base for day-tripping into either city, with the train station within easy walking distance of most central accommodation. Travelers who prefer more space or a quieter setting can look to the outer districts, a short bus ride from the historic core.

Ghent

Ghent is around 20 to 25 minutes away by direct train, making it easy to combine a morning in Aalst with an afternoon among Ghent's canals, medieval towers, and lively student-town atmosphere.

Brussels

Belgium's capital is roughly 25 to 35 minutes away on the same rail line, putting Aalst within easy day-trip range of Brussels' major museums and the Grand Place.

Dendermonde

A short train or bus ride northeast, Dendermonde is a smaller riverside town with its own historic Grote Markt, belfry, and béguinage, offering a quieter, less-visited contrast to Aalst.

Ninove and Geraardsbergen

South and southwest of Aalst, Ninove and Geraardsbergen sit in the rolling Flemish Ardennes, an area known for cycling routes and small-town charm; Geraardsbergen in particular is a classic stop on regional cycling routes tied to the region's cycling heritage.

• Aalst is a generally low-crime, working Flemish city; standard precautions around bags and valuables apply in busy areas like the Grote Markt and train station, especially at night.
• Belgium's nationwide emergency number is 112 for police, fire, or ambulance services.
• During the annual carnival, streets around the center get extremely crowded and some roads close to traffic, so visitors attending should expect large crowds, heavy drinking in the streets, and plan transport in advance.
• Dutch is the everyday language in Aalst, as the city sits in Flanders; English is common in central hotels and restaurants but less consistent outside the tourist core.
• Cyclists share many central streets with pedestrians and cars, so it's worth staying alert when crossing marked bike paths.

Aalst is generally cheaper than Brussels, Ghent, or Bruges for food and lodging, making it a good lower-cost base for exploring the region. A casual lunch with a drink typically runs less than an equivalent meal in central Ghent, while sit-down dinners at the city's better-regarded restaurants cost more but still undercut prices in Belgium's most touristed cities.

Many of the central sights, including the Grote Markt itself, St. Martin's Church, and the Stadspark, cost nothing to visit, with fees applying mainly to the guided belfry tour and museum entry. Traveling by train between Aalst, Ghent, and Brussels is inexpensive given the short distances involved, which helps keep a multi-city day affordable.

As in the rest of Flanders, a simple greeting when entering a shop or café is expected, and tipping isn't obligatory since service is included in restaurant prices, though rounding up the bill for good service is common. Locals take real pride in the "Ajuinen" (onion) nickname, so it's a friendly rather than mocking term to hear used around the city.

Aalst's carnival is a centuries-old local tradition and remains an enormous point of civic identity, though its content has drawn international controversy in recent years, including UNESCO's 2019 decision to remove the event from its Intangible Cultural Heritage list over antisemitic imagery in parade floats. Visitors attending should expect a genuinely local, satirical, no-holds-barred street festival rather than a curated tourist spectacle.

Half-Day in Aalst

Start at the Grote Markt for coffee and a look at the belfry and town hall facade, then step into St. Martin's Church to see its Gothic interior and Rubens altarpiece. Finish with a walk through the Oud Schepenhuis area before lunch at one of the brasseries on the square.

Full Day in Aalst

Follow the half-day plan above, then spend the afternoon at 't Gasthuys City Museum or the Netwerk Contemporary Art Centre depending on interest, with a stop in Stadspark or along the Dender riverside to close out the day. This pace also leaves room for an early dinner featuring stoofvlees before catching a return train to Brussels or Ghent.